2022 Thursday, Sept. 29

Albergaria a Velha to Oliveira de Azemeis

Rain! We were transported to yesterday’s end point, Albergaria-a-Velha, from our hotel in Agueda. We had the same taxi driver, who had already decided since my name was Jan that Richard must be Tarzan. We expected it to be a difficult and uncomfortable day, but one can never predict. . .

12.36 miles hiking; 13.4 miles for the day. 9:42 am to 6:55 pm at Oliveira de Azemeis. 1473 feet elevation change.

2022  Portugal  Camino Portuguese

Click to view today’s video: https://www.relive.cc/view/vevW8DZA2yO

Rain started in the early morning. We were prepared with gaiters, rain pants, raincoat (for Jan), and a parka. It was a day we decided to pull out our poles as well.
The dirt road was rain soaked and potholes were deep in places. At one point, we navigated off the road through someone’s backyard to avoid soaking our boots.
Luckily the weather changed in the late morning and we began drying out.
In Bemposta, the Ancestral Road (Roman) and Royal Road passed through the same area as the Camino. The most significant buildings of the village were atop the hill where wealthy families lived in the 16th and 17th centuries. From this viewpoint, one can see the river Rio de Aveiro and the Atlantic Ocean.
This home, Casa de at Arco, was in the historic center of Bemposta. The passageway arch, window/balcony combinations, and plaster made to simulate stonework are all unique. Sadly the buildings seem to have seen better days.
As we headed down the hill from Bemposta, we encountered the more modern stones of the current sidewalks and streets.

Lessons for the day: rain can make the time fly by as you try to avoid the new potholes while keeping dry. Even a highway roadside cafe can prove to be a diamond in the rough with good food and dry quarters. Historical buildings along the Camino have been well documented with markers bringing their history to life. Such surprises!

One more giant climb to the stone cross atop the hill in Oliveira de Azemeis. Luckily the hotel is nearby on the top of the hill.

Comments:

Dan Hendry: Looks like you had a very challenging day! Didn’t realize that so much of the Camino is “on” roadways. Guess that’s better than walking in mud! Seeing many more fellow pilgrims? The more I watch, the more I admire your resilience and fortitude. 2022/10/02

Reply: Our least favorite part of the hike is along the roads. They are only two lane, but cars and trucks whiz by. Sometimes instructions say “cross the N1 (highway)” and we have no idea if there will be an overpass, underpass, traffic light, or if we have to make our own way. We wait a long time for traffic to clear before venturing out to cross unprotected.
Tomorrow’s post will include some more pilgrims but there are not many of us yet. We are now in Porto and expect more people since it is still within the mileage to earn the Compostela. However, there are two branches from Porto to Santiago: one coastal route and our interior route. We shall see if more pilgrims are traveling around us. 2022/10/02

Ann Prazza: Love the rain to sun photos. How are the boot dryers working? Can’t wait to see more pilgrims along the final stretch 22/10/05

Reply: Boot warmers are wonderful! Hoping for very little chance to use them (hah!) we’re seeing more pilgrims starting from Porto—it energizes us to see their excitement! 2022/10/06