2022 Friday, Sept 30

Oliveira de Azemeis to Malaposta

The hike was uneventful from Oliveira de Azemeis to Malaposta except for the elevation—we started on a hill and it seemed that almost every step was up from there.

10.5 mile hike 9:07 am to 3:41 pm; 1187 elevation gain. 12.7mikes for the day included a taxi side trip to nearby Santa Maria de Feira to view the monastery and castle.

2022  Portugal   Camino Portuguese

Click to view today’s video: https://www.relive.cc/view/veqzXMRJGBO

parish church of St. Michael in Oliveira de Azemeis
The parish church of St. Michael in Oliveira de Azemeis is mentioned in documents as far back as 922. Today’s church was rather stark inside but had the beautiful tile and icon of St. George and the dragon over the door.
St. Michael in the parish church of St. Michael in Oliveira de Azemeis
forest trail with Eucalyptus cover
The early part of the walk was on woodland paths in the forest.
marble shell motif
We passed a company that formed marble slabs into various shapes. In front of their factory, on the Camino, they gifted this shell to mark the way.
medieval bridge
The Ponte do Salgueiro is a Medieval bridge from the 14th century that Camino pilgrims pass over.
Arrifana Church
This Arrifana Church (named for its location) is covered with beautiful blue tiles. We reached it as they were preparing for a funeral, but they were gracious enough to let us in briefly for a credential stamp.
Arrifana Church bells
The bells began pealing about 1:30 pm. You may want to turn your sound down a bit for this 17 second video.

The walk after the Arrifana Church led through residential neighborhoods and highways. Our instruction sometimes include street names but there are no actual markers with the names. When we were having a map-check beside the road, a car slowed, then backed up, and the driver said “I know you’re lost.” His name was Tony and his English was excellent. He proceeded to give very specific instructions a couple of times to make sure we understood. Finally we were confident to make it down the road, and he waited patiently to make sure we made the first couple of turns correctly.

By now we were heading down a two-lane major highway with trucks and every manner of auto. We were tired of noise and danger of the road, so we stopped at a tiny cafe intending to ask for help calling a taxi. They spoke very little English, but convinced us that we were very close and could walk the rest of the way in to the hotel. There was some discussion between customers as to our hike and whether or not we could make it to Santiago in the time I discussed.

Santa Maria da Feira monastery church - closed for mass
Once at our hotel, we could arrange a free taxi to see the sights of a nearby town, Santa Maria da Feira. We were disappointed to miss the monastery church since there was a Friday afternoon mass, but we were able to make a quick visit to the local museum.
Santa Maria da Feira castle
The castle has traces back to time before Portugal became a nation. In the 10th and 11th centuries, it was an important border between Christians and Muslims. In 1448, the Pereiras, a noble family, took charge of the castle and made changes including adding their family crest. After a 1722 fire, the castle was idle for a time but now is being renovated.
Santa Maria da Feira castle
Santa Maria da Feira castle

Dinner was at a typical fish restaurant loosely connected with our hotel. Our waiter spoke not a word of English but took very good care of us, even chastising when the plate was not finished. It’s a shame we know so little Portuguese, but it’s always a joy to interact with people who are so willing to communicate the best way we can. This waiter had personality, and earned a nice tip.

Comments:

Wanda Penner: I am amazed at the places you are visiting and completing the walking as well. The interior of a few of these places definitely suggest a long time ago. 2022/10/02

Reply: We both enjoy seeing some sites as well as walking. It has been nice the last few days not having such long walks. We like to have a day no more than 15-16 miles; anything longer and we are too exhausted to see anything. 2022/10/03

Dan Hendry: So interesting that the Camino jumps from narrow paths, to tree lined areas, to narrow roads, to highways. Seems so different from your previous Camino trips.. 2022/10/02

Reply: It does seem that this Camino has a lot of variety. There is also a lot of urban walking: residential neighborhoods, industrial areas, downtown among storefronts. Since the ancient roads went from church to church, it depends a lot on what has grown up in the church’s neighborhood. I enjoy the quiet of the woods and small towns downtown areas. My least favorites are the industrial areas and highways—so many trucks to avoid and lots of noise. 2022/10/03

Jim Constantin:  Hey guys, the locals sound very accommodating. Buen Camino. Jim 22/10/02

Reply: They are, and thank goodness! We would be lost without them! 2022/10/02

Ann Prazza:  It’s like a medieval fairyland! 22/10/02

Reply: True! We both felt that the town has big plans for the castle—it’s a work in progress. They were working on English language signage. 2022/10/03