2022 Tuesday, Oct 18

Santiago de Compostela Rest Day

Tuesday was a rest day in Santiago, and a chance to get our Compostela, attend mass in the cathedral, and enjoy some of the things we liked or didn’t get to do the last time we were here.

5.1 miles for the day.  No video today.

2022  Spain   Camino Portuguese

Richard outside our hotel in Santiago
Heading out from our hotel for pilgrim’s mass and an appointment to get our Compostela.
waiting for the pilgrim's mass in St. James Cathedral
We were early for the noon mass but not early enough—it was standing room or lean on a post.
the altar in St. James Cathedral
The altar piece has been cleaned and looks glorious. The last time we were here, we could file behind the statue of St. James and hug him. Not so this time, as we could never catch it open. There are so many masses and people everywhere so I think it’s too much for security.
botafumeiro (incense burner)
Pictures were forbidden during the ceremony so my pictures show the botafumeiro (incense burner) in its stationary position.
botafumeiro (incense burner) ropes
Near the end of the mass, about a half dozen large priest assistants came down to take charge of the rope. Each one held a small knotted rope while one person was responsible for keeping the last loop on the pole until all was ready. A priest lit the botafumeiro, and they all moved together to a central location. The priest gave the first push to begin swinging, and then the assistants with ropes did the rest. It is a joyous task—the organ was loud, the assistants looked happy with their jobs, and people couldn’t help themselves and were taking pictures of the procedure. The incense burner was swung side to side from just above the altar to nearly ceiling level (remember: it’s a cathedral).
Jerry, Camille, and Cathy from Washington state
Heading off to the pilgrim office after mass, we ran into friends Jerry, Camille, and Cathy just arriving in the main square.
shadow pilgrim
Before we headed home for bed, we made a stop to make sure the “shadow pilgrim” was still there. By day, it’s a singular post on the back side of the cathedral. At night, the lighting shows a pilgrim with a hat, staff, and backpack. Thanks Emma and Simon for showing us!

Comments:

Ann Prazza: Really enjoying the idea of you guys getting your stamps. Running into other pilgrim friends. I can see that incense swinging! Didn’t Richard sneeze? 2022/10/19

Reply He didn’t sneeze—it didn’t seem to bother him. I don’t like the smell but it doesn’t go on too long. Hard to think bad thoughts when there’s obviously so much joy. Don’t you wish all church was like that?

The stamps are full—three full credentials. I’m generally not asking any more but tonight we did a pilgrim mass that I want to remember so I had to get a stamp. I didn’t have a credential with me so I stamped the guidebook. The memory is there. 2022/10/19

Wendy Hendry: Wow. That altar piece looks spectacular! Also love the shadow pilgrim. Wendy2022/10/19

Reply It’s beautiful for the celebration 2021-2022. I’m so glad we have seen it finished—our visit was very abbreviated 3 years ago as they were working on the cathedral. There are still some areas to clean but I guess that is always the case.

The shadow pilgrim is one of my favorites. Who could possibly have dreamed that up? And it’s personal—you have to be shown what to look for. 2022/10/19