2023 Sunday Oct. 22

San Quirico d'Orcia to Castiglione d'Orcia

Here is today’s video: https://www.relive.cc/view/vPv4RKJojR6

The weather was spectacular and crowds were out for Sunday activities. There was a bicycle race, but it was aimed toward San Quirico while we were headed away from the hilltop town.

Later in the afternoon we were mostly alone on the trail, finally arriving at our evening stop at a 700-year-old agriturismo where the proprietors and seven cats were our only companions.

Bike racers facing a tough uphill climb. Happily, we were heading downhill at this point.

We’re used to signage pointing us to Via Francigena. In this area known for biking, there are numerous signs pointing to other biking and hiking areas.

We made a stop at Vignoni Alto mentioned in our guidebook. Soon a bike guide showed up with his crew to brag that they would get a panorama view that only the locals knew. “Not so,” we pointed out, and found that the bikers were mostly from Colorado, and one, Moussa, was from San Jose. Massimo, their local guide, took our picture.

Heading down the hill to Bagni Vignoni where we hope to make a stop.

The Piazza delle Sorgenti (Piazza of Springs) where we found a bar full of cyclists, tourists, and us. It’s Sunday in Italy!

The parking lot was full, including transportation for many of the bicyclists.

Heading on, we found families harvesting their olives. Nets are placed on the ground or held, and the lady is holding an instrument like a pitchfork that vibrates as she moves it among the branches. It sounds like chainsaws in the valley.

Alas, there is no obvious door for registration and although we can hear folks inside, no one hears us. Lesson learned on last year’s Portuguese Camino: look for a bell. Found one on the side of the garage, and ringing it got us service!

There is ample garden space to relax and we have an upstairs four-room apartment.

The key to our apartment. Old houses have thick walls and doors!

The view out of our bedroom window. Tomorrow’s destination is Radicofani with its tower high in the hill. It looks like a long way (it IS a long way!)

Our kitchen where Elena will serve our dinner— fresh with ingredients from their gardens.

Appetizer: pumpkin potato soup with rosemary.

Primo: spaghetti with tomato and garlic sauce. They grow wheat on this farm, and have it processed into pasta at a local pasta factory in Gallina.

Secondo is pork with greens. The local pigs forage freely in the forest giving their meat a better flavor. The wine came from grapes grown under our bedroom window, and processed by local friends.

Two of the seven cats who kept a sharp eye on us and would sneak in when the door was opened. They would dearly like to come inside where it is warm!

Comments:

David Holt: Love the view from this agriturismo. It is so cool that they can point to the fields where the wheat is grown and the town where it has been milled into flour. A very special experience. 2023/10/24 at 5:54 pm

Reply: I totally agree. Do you know if this is also where you stayed when you walked this? Elena is wonderful, and what a special experience to stay in a home first built in the 1400’s by the owners of the nearby castle! 2023/10/24 at 9:28 pm

Dave Wolfe: Hi Holmen (Plural, you notice). Just caught up with you at the nice home where the woman served a multicourse meal. That must have added to the satisfaction of a demanding walk. You make me tired, but keep it up. Was impressed by the beautiful scene where Richard was standing in the gate with rolling hills and the lake (ocean?) behind him in the distance. Almost made me wish I were with you…almost. Hike on! 2023/10/25 at 6:02 am

Reply: Hi Dave, I’m glad you enjoyed our Sunday walk as I think it was one of our most spectacular days. The folks we meet not only feed our stomachs but also our understanding and similarities of our diverse cultures. The rolling hills behind Richard may be near small lakes, but I surmise that you are seeing the clouds and mists. 2023/10/25 at 10:15 am

Dan Hendry: Wow, what a neat day. Beautiful countryside. Awesome food along with a kitty “fix,” It looks like this trip is very hilly. Much more than Spain? Looking at the tower from your window would convince me a taxi is the best option for making the next destination. 2023/10/28 at 2:25 am

Reply: I agree that this was a very unique day with experiences not seen elsewhere. This seems like much more elevation than previous walks, but we have to review and then decide—it may just be that we’re tired now and forget the aches of other years. The tower just makes Richard more determined—he’s out to climb every tower in Italy! 2023/10/28 at 6:21 am