We knew this would be a difficult day. The guidebook predicts mileage of 14-19+ miles depending on your choice of the highway route or “safe route” avoiding highway walking. The agriturismo breakfast didn’t start until 8, later than usual, and we then needed a transfer to Radicofani where we finished yesterday. The late start coupled with darkness at 6:30 made a decision point at Ponte A Rigo, about 7 miles into our day, necessary for us to review our plan.

 

Rain was predicted to start about 1 pm, but it arrived early at 10:45. We arrived at Ponte A Rigo at 12:15 ready for a break, only to discover no services in the town except this picnic table, thankfully sheltered at least somewhat from the rain.

Decision point: about 12+ miles in hard rain following the safe route and arriving by dark (if all goes well), or choosing about 3.5 miles following the roadway, hopefully with pathways, and calling a taxi to avoid the last 3.5 miles the book calls “punctuated by terror of large trucks and fast cars along the road within inches of you.”

 

As we got closer to the town, the road got trickier. In pouring rain, we were avoiding the road at all costs. First we headed through a cow pasture but realized we were off course; back to re-calculate. Next we had to ford a stream with slick stones—not much to do but step in the water. We scampered up the bank and came directly to an electric fence. The first few feet traversing between the fence and brambles were not too difficult, but then the trail grew narrower. Not to be denied, we began tearing back the brambles and finally made it beyond the fence. Now there was nothing to do but head into a homeowner’s yard hoping no angry canines would greet us.