The rain continues but we have a 15-mile day ahead of us. Gill has cautioned us about overgrown hedge rows slowing us down. It turned out to be a very long hiking day with dreadful weather.
15.3 miles, elevation gain 2348 feet, rain most of the day and gale-force winds, temperature 56 degrees, humidity 88%.
Richard’s ReLive video is longer than usual but shows the best idea of the terrain and trail. Click here to get the video: https://www.relive.com/view/vQvyKjZYp46
Gill’s breakfast at the Orchid House was wonderful.
Patrick was helping out with breakfast. He is a great storyteller and it would have been good to spend some hours listening to him.
We talked to the pub bartenders about hurling and now Patrick has this championship picture proudly displayed. He explained that there are two main Irish sports: Gaelic football and Gaelic hurling. Irish counties sometimes are better at one sport than they are with the other. County Clare (includes Fanore) won the championship two years ago and Patrick proudly claimed that he is in the crowd at the game.
In Gaelic hurling, there are 15 players on each team. They carry a long stick with a smooth bowl on the end (Hurley). A player may catch the ball (sliotar) with his hands or stick, but he may not run with it unless he is bouncing the ball in the cup of the stick. Patrick said youngsters start practicing this bouncing technique and the game is fascinating and quick to watch.
Ok, Mark and Andrea: are you impressed that I can discuss anything about a sport?
We were following the Black Head Loop trail that closely follows the coast around although we knew we would be above the road.
The countryside is beautiful.
We met Noel, a resident, returning from his morning walk. He knows Gill and Patrick as he also had an accommodation home up until Covid. He pointed out his house below us (next picture beside the red car). He gave us more advice about the trail we were beginning, and kept us talking. Finally he asked how old we are. As we said goodbye, he took off his glove and shake hands with each of us, almost as if he thought we might never be seen again.
As we journeyed further, we realized that Noel really was concerned for our safety and in his gentle manner, was warning us. Our last job of the night before we retired in safety to our bed, was to email Gill asking her to get word to Noel that we made it safely. She wrote back that Noel had indeed called her, and she would let him know we were okay.
Blissfully ignorant, the harder part of the trail begins. I will defer mostly to Richard’s ReLive video to show our terrain and hiking struggles.
One of my major difficulties is climbing when leg strength is required. In this picture, we climbed to the rocks in the upper right. It is not easy for me and Richard sometimes has to pull me up or I crawl up backwards.
This photo hints at the slick rock of the Burren, limestone uneven rocks with crevasses. When we were struggling to find the trail, we were covering this type of slick ground, some of which was disguised under grass. Either open stones or grass was slow going as each step had to be considered carefully.
Richard finally locates the trail marker and we can get back on the trail. Only later did I find out how concerned he was. I was already in panic mode and couldn’t get much worse. The wind was terrifying up here—reminders of the crazy weathermen you see broadcasting during hurricanes and struggling to stand up. For me, I wanted to throw my pack off when the climbing was difficult, but now I wanted the heaviest pack possible to give me weight against the wind.
The rock wall gives a bit of shelter from the wind and a safe handhold. Note the beautiful green land below. We are also finally reaching farm roads that lead downward. Hurrah!
We have now reached more civilization but it also means more walking on roads. We saw our first person in about 8 hours—a dog walker. One very kind driver pulled over to ask if he could give us a ride somewhere. By that time we were close to our evening accommodation and thoroughly soaked, so we thanked him but declined the ride.
Darren greeted us at the Hazelwood Lodge, and was quite surprised we were so late at about 8:30. He said he had never seen people quite so wet, but led us to the drying room and helped us get out of our wet clothes. He offered to drive us into town for some dinner, but we had no desire to go out again. We had purchased “to go” sandwiches about 9:30 that morning but had never stopped to eat, so we knew we wouldn’t starve. Darren warmed up mushroom soup, found us a bottle of wine, and laid a fire to warm us. The day both began and ended on the kindness and hospitality of the Irish people.
8 Responses
I’ve never experienced so many emotional responses after reading one of your daily posting and watching your day’s Relive. Emotions ranged from shock and admiration to “ARE YOU NUTS!” Can’t remember too many trails you have managed from past adventures that have been as bad as this. And 15 miles of it!!! Can’t believe how you managed in such rocky, water soaked and slippery conditions in rain and heavy wind. Please take care of yourselves and don’t take any more risks like this! I’m still in disbelief after reading this an hour ago. Love you both and please be cautious and less “adventurous” the rest of your trip. Love you both. Dan and Wendy
This was a very difficult post to write because of the emotions both Richard and I feel (still yet). We’ve decided we can only be honest about the experience and how we felt along the journey. You are very rational in thinking we were nuts—we really did not know what to expect. On Inishmore, we turned back twice when conditions got unsafe. This was a grand trail on the side of the hill/mountain, and there was no place to go but forward. We have not ever had anything so taxing nor do I want to try fate again.
We have made a pact to review the trail each night and determine with weather forecasts whether or not we should go forward. This week we expect rain, but hopefully negligible amounts and only one pretty long day with climbing. We will remember your advice.
Reading back on your previous post you mentioned that the hiking was “much more challenging than planned.” Hmmmm, wonder what you think after today’s journey! Stay safe and don’t be so hesitant to accept a ride now and then. Mom and dad advice.
Dan and Wendy
We’re planning safety first. I wonder if you were referring to us turning down a ride when we were almost to our accommodation? It was so kind for the man to stop, but we were so wet we would have muddied his car. We told him where we were headed and he agreed we were quite close. If not, I would have taken the ride and let him worry about the car.
Man…I hardly know where to begin…I haven’t even watched the relive yet, but I gotta agree with Dan and Wendy’s post. Reading through this, I admit to laughing, although it isn’t really funny…I’m talking about Noel and his “farewell handshake” So nice of him to check up on you later…and then all these photos of how drenching wet you are…and the slippery terrain…be still my heart!
So sorry about the wind and rain…there’s a reason why Ireland is green…..
Ireland is green for the rain, and it’s wonderful except when we’re in a drenching downpour. Much of the time there will be a rain squall, and if we can wait a few minutes, it will pass over and we just have overcast conditions, or in a rare case, some sunshine. That was sometimes the case on this day, but more often we had longer periods of rain mixed with the howling wind. Except for the 3 1/2 hours when we were bushwhacking around the north end of the Burren and were sheltered from the wind, we were generally exposed. It was just different from anything else we’ve encountered. I blessed every one of those rock walls that allowed a firm handhold (just watch out for the berry brambles).
I’m going to believe that this was just unusually bad weather mixed with the tough hike day—a perfect storm—that won’t happen again.
Geez, I’m exhausted. I’m cold. I’m wet. I’m lost. I’m hungry. I’m doing this for fun. I’m doing this to prove I have chutzpah. I’m about to be institutionalized. All from the comfort of my office.
(But the Holmans? Do they have chutzpah!)
My heart still skips a beat each time I remember last Thursday’s hike. We should definitely have been institutionalized but at least we learned what NOT to do. Maybe it will seem like fun when my anxiety level abates.