Day 2 of the Pembrokeshire Coast Trail. Today is still about 12 miles with lots of ups and downs but we were told it would be “easier.” The heights may not have been so great, but we climbed and dropped nonetheless. Often we were dropping down to rocky or sandy beaches, and then climbing back to the heights.
10.91 miles, sunshine and not too much wind, 54 degrees 68% humidity. 1717 ft. elevation gain.
Click for Richard’s ReLive video: https://www.relive.com/view/v26MdgAE33O
Breakfast at the Cnapan B&B—Richard always has the full Welsh breakfast.
Son Oliver, Judy, and Mike all had a hand in breakfast.
We’re ready to head out when Laura and her husband Ewan came by to transport our luggage.
This hardware/anything store was across from the B&B and advertised itself as the first community hardware store in Britain. Mike explained that they couldn’t find a buyer when they needed to sell, so the town met and decided they needed the store services. Townspeople organized and raised money, so now almost everyone in town has a piece in the store.
Simon took his car out of the long-term parking lot long enough for us all to visit Pentre Ifan, a few miles away. It is a 5000 year-old former burial chamber whose rocky spine still exists today. The rocks are bluestones, the same mystical stones used in Stonehenge.
The Pentre Ifen is framed by the Preseli Mountains behind it on the left, an ancient volcano. The blue stones are thought to be magical, and were used in this structure as well as the smaller stones in Stonehenge.
This picture captures the immense size and the fact that the 16-ton capstone, split to have a flat underside, has been balanced on three points for 5000 years.
Some people believe this is just the structure under a burial mound that once covered it. Others assert that it was made to impress as the capstone appears almost hovering, and it would have been left uncovered as a landmark.
This Carrey Coetan burial chamber dates from 3000 BC and is now on private property surrounded by homes on a cul de sac (but still protected by Wales antiquities).
It has a wedge-shaped capstone balanced on two points, and is thought to be a small burial chamber, once covered by dirt. They have found Neolithic pottery, stone tools, and cremated human bones here.
Time to get moving by heading out along the estuary.
Each day I have to convince myself anew that I can climb the cliffs and keep solid footing without tumbling into the sea.
We ran into Louie in the town of Cwm-yr-Eglwys where he had just gone for a swim. We’re standing before what’s left of St. Branach’s Church, a 12th c. Celtic-like church destroyed in the storm of 1879.
It’s warm today so lots of families are enjoying the beach.
Moving on, Richard and I skip the trail circling the high outcrop and instead take an even path through the woods, arriving at another cove. Now the fun begins again—more steep climbs.
The sun is getting lower in the sky when we near a caravan park. It looks like we’re nearing civilization, but unfortunately there is still some rough trail ahead.
Finally we reach the fort overlooking Fishguard Harbor. A pirate sailed into the harbor in its early days and tried to ransom the businesses on shore. They refused, so he destroyed the area. In response, the town built the fort for protection.
A beautiful sunset, but we’re in lower Fishguard and our hotel in up a long hill. We will arrive after dark.
We enjoy a dinner rehashing the day with friends Simon, Louie, and Martin.
8 Responses
SUN!!!! BLUE SKIES!!!!
It was so great when the weather turned glorious!!!!
I’m struck by the capstone burial sites, their stillness holding so much weight of the past. The photo of the cannon framed through the doorway of the crumbling wall is my favorite!
Funny how we started searching out the burial sites for you, but ended up loving to compare and contrast each one!
Simon checked out Fishguard’s fort and said the cannons were the best part—glad I got a shot of them.
Can’t believe you are still doing such steep and rocky uphill and downhills. Must be taking a real toll! Eleven miles and almost 2000 ft. elevation! Next time, call Uber when you hit a roadway! Getting concerned for both of you! Dan
We are a long way from roadways, clearly out on our own. Every day was up and down, worth a self-discussion each morning about the challenge. But there were always highlight, help from Richard and Simon, and surprises to be had. I’m happy we did it!
WOW! What za rugged day!
It was rugged but better than the day before! Who picked this trail anyway? (I did, sheepishly answered).