After two tough days when we were having trouble finishing in daylight, we worked with our tour company to alter our hikes a bit.
The normal schedule included a second night in Fishguard with a transport to the end spot, Porthgain, and an expected walk backwards to Fishguard. We took the transport but requested a stop closer to Fishguard, leaving us about a 6-mile day.
6.29 miles, sunny, 855 elevation gain
Richard’s ReLive video is here: https://www.relive.com/view/v4OG8JKEx56
Imron is our taxi driver hired by the company out of Fishguard. However, he drove us even as far away as St. David’s and was always agreeable to our changes and pleasant and entertaining.
Laura of VIP Wales suggested we should be dropped off at St. Gwyndaf’s Church at Llanwnda that was near the coastal trail and would make the day’s mileage about half of what was planned. We were welcoming the break.
The church is dedicated to St. Gwyndaf who arrived from Brittany in the 6th century. The church building dates from the 13th to 15th centuries.
During the French invasion of 1797, the church may have been looted and some records burned, or possibly soldiers just took refuge and used parish records to start a fire for warmth.
This marker at Carregwasted Point marks the point where French ships came ashore.
From the St. Gwyndaf Church we had to reconnect with the Pembrokeshire Coast Path. After a false start, we crossed the sheep pasture and found our trail.
Once again the weather was beautiful and views were stunning, even as we continued to trek up and down with each bay or inlet.
We began noticing hoof prints in the mud of the trail. Wild horses were on our cliff side of the fence, but they were happy to keep their distance.
We were happy to reach Goodwick, very near Fishguard, when it was close to noon. There are benches! We sat and enjoyed our sack lunches purchased from our B&B this morning.
Behind some residences in Goodwick, there are three separate burial chambers (cromlechs) constructed during the Neolithic period (4000-2500 BC) in this Garn Wen area. It may be that they were used for burial of important members of society, as pottery and stone tools were also deposited. Each was probably covered by a mound of earth or stone.
We must descend to the lower town and cross the tracks and go around the bay to get to our hotel. There is a shortcut with steps: 243 steep steps!
Fishguard is proud of their part saving Wales from the French invasion. They are particularly proud of a woman who single-handedly stopped a dozen soldiers with her pitchfork. Many local items were named for her such as Jemima Pitchfork Ale.
We met Moira on our hike back to the hotel. Like many people, she asked where we were from and then wanted to talk about activities in the US.
The local library has an exhibit about the last invasion including a maps and a tapestry artfully describing the resistance.
Incredibly, about 78 local women created the embroidered tapestry over four years to coincide with the bicentennial celebration in 1997. Panels are detailed and colorful, and link to create a 100-foot tapestry story.
This churchyard memorial describes the invasion heroine: Jemima Nicholas. She is known as one of the remarkable women of Wales.
Simon completed today’s entire walk (not our shortened version) but we reunited to dine together. Richard and Simon enjoyed the local brew, Double Dragons.
3 Responses
A much better day! Not as much mileage or elevation and not walking in the dark! We like the way you have so many random meetups and conversations. You are good ambassadors for our country when so much negativity is prevalent. Richard, hope you are managing o.k. with your knee issues. Proud of you both for such grit and fortitude!
Dan and Wendy
We both have some minor toe issues from the squeeze of descending, but we’re managing. Everyone we have met feels similarly to us, so we can just nod and avoid the difficult conversations. I would say the locals are great ambassadors—they are proud of their country and want us to appreciate it too. Not hard!
Another great day!