2025 Wednesday, Oct. 29

Roma

Today’s plan is to visit the Basilica of St. Paul Outise the Walls, and then use our timed entry tickets for Castel Sant’Angelo in the afternoon.

7.20 miles, sunny, 62 degrees, 75% humidity.

Richard’s ReLive video for the day is here: https://www.relive.com/view/vMv8NQm4AN6

The Basilica of Saint Paul Outside the Walls is further from the center of Rome and (we hoped) not so crowded. It is another of the four major basilicas in Rome, and has always been a favorite of mine.

The mosaic facade shows Jesus flanked by St. Peter and Saint Paul at the top, then a lamb over four rivers (gospels) feeding 12 sheep (apostles). Below that are four Old Testament prophets: Isaiah, Jeremiah, Ezekiel, and Daniel.

Saint Paul and Saint Peter (below) are the two major statues at the entrance.

The Holy Door is a work in bronze showing scenes of Saint Paul’s life, from 2000. The door on the right side of the facade is opened for special occasions and the Jubilee year.

Walking through the Holy Door is considered a symbolic act of spiritual renewal, inviting pilgrims to embark on a journey of hope and grace.

The Byzantine Door from the 11th century is visible behind the Holy Door.

The nave is expansive with five aisles separated by four rows of Corinthian columns.

The nave’s 80 columns and its wood and stucco-decorated ceiling are from the 19th century. The apse and triumphal arch survived the 1823 fire but were greatly damaged..

The 5th-century mosaics of the triumphal arch are original (but also heavily reworked). The subject portrays the Apocalypse of John, with the bust of Christ in the middle flanked by the 24 Doctors of the Church, surmounted by the flying symbols of the four Evangelists. Saint Peter and Saint Paul are portrayed at the right and left of the arch, the latter pointing downwards (probably to his tomb).

The apse mosaic, originally created in the first half of the 13th century, incorporates some parts that survived the devastating fire of 1823. Christ on his throne is surrounded by St. Peter and St. Andrew on his left, and St. Paul and Luke the Evangelist on his right.

Pope Honorius III, who ordered this work of art, appears in the work robed in the white chasuble worn by a priest for mass and prostrates himself at the right foot of Christ.

The ciborium above the altar dates from the latter half of the 13th century. It miraculously survived the fire of 1823, and crowns the tomb of the apostle with four columns.

This is the basilica known for having portraits of all the popes above the columns in the center nave and surrounding aisle. 

The current pope is represented by a beam of light. Here it shines on an empty spot as the portrait of Pope Leo has not been installed. Legend has it that when there are no more spots to house papal portraits, the Church (or world) will end.

We were able to get afternoon tickets to visit Castel Sant’Angelo. It was originally commissioned by the Emperor Hadrian as a mausoleum for himself and his family. Later it was used by Popes as a fortress and castle.

The statue of Archangel Michael sits atop the Castel brandishing a sword. This copy (minus the sword) decorates the courtyard.

Beginning about the 14th century, Popes began converting the structure into a castle.

The fortress was also known for its dungeon.

One of the angels from the Ponte Sant’Angelo looking towards the Castel Sant’Angelo.

The Rome Pantheon. Crowds (as everywhere ) but we waited to buy tickets and have a quick visit.

The Pantheon is built on the site of an ancient 2nd century temple, but was saved largely because of being designated a church in AD 609.

The rotunda ceiling has been the world’s largest unreinforced concrete dome with an oculus to the sky for 2000 years. The height and diameter are both the same: 43 meters.

There are tombs: Victoria Emmanuel II, . . .

. . .King Umberto I, and . . .

. . . Raphael Santi.

The portico of the pantheon is supported by 8 large columns. 

We’re headed back to the street where our hotel is located. Another full day in Rome.

2 Responses

  1. St Paul’s was one of our favorite’s from Rome. Something very majestic about it. Great that you have allowed yourself the opportunity to see so many highlights. Good location of your hotel to cut down on some of the walking time! Look forward to catching up when you get home. Seems like you have been gone forever. Dan

    1. I’m glad you’ve seen St. Paul Outside the Walls. It has been a favorite since I saw it when I was twenty. I love the mosaics, and the succession of popes.
      We usually stay near the train station in Rome since it’s centrally located and close to many things. I usually like to visit Santa Maria Maggiore and was so disappointed that it was not to be this year.

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