2023 Thursday Oct. 26

Bolsena Rest Day

No Relive video today.

Thursday was booked as a rest day and the skies were cloudy but no rain. After catching up with laundry, we were determined to see the sights.

 

There were no lakefront establishments open, but the views from the quay were beautiful.

 

Our hotel from the quay.

 

Heading back to the old town, we enter the city walls through the city gate. Inside the spider webs are strewn for Halloween.

 

From the city square, the castle towers above.

 

A side street from the Via Francigena.

 

The local pizza restaurant touts its lunch and proved to be worth the hype.

 

Now up the hill to see the castle!

 

Julia–these are two views from a castle home up for sale.

 

Bolsena dates back at least to Etruscan times. There is a wonderful museum of the local history, including s tower climb (that of course, Richard conquered.)

 

The Church of Santa Christina honors a Bolsena beloved saint.

 

When we visited the church, a lady asked if we wanted to visit the crypt, which of course we did. The original stone was there with evidence of Grace plundering, and a newer grave above.

 

The crypt beyond Christina’s area shows the area where other people are buried. It is a Christmas tree pattern with radiating spikes, but is particularly interesting that the rows have vertical layers so more people could be as close as possible to the relics of Saint Christina.

 

Lastly, the Miracle of Bolsena is celebrated here where the bread the priest was blessing suddenly began to drip blood on his hands and the stone.

 

In response, Pope Urban IV created the Feast of Corpus Christi.

 

A statue of Saint Christina with her attribute (arrows).

 

At dinner we met Faith and Sean from Edmonton Alberta Canada. It’s amazing how people respond when they see pilgrim credentials come out—it is indeed an ice-breaker. Faith and Sean are also walking from Lucca to Rome on almost the same timetable as we are, but they are carrying everything on their backs and are generally staying in hostels. Oh, to be young again!!

 

Bolsena’s castle.

 

Night time from our hotel room looking out at the lake. You can see the swimming pool area.

No Relive video today.

Comments:

David Holt: Bolsena is very beautiful. Hope you saw a lot of jug heads while walking the old town. 2023/10/28 at 8:58 pm

Reply: We did enjoy the art. However, it is so different walking the via this late in the year and Bolsena is very shut down. Nothing is open near the lake, and only a few restaurants were open. We especially enjoyed the museum at the castle—Bolsena is an ancient location. 2023/10/29 at 5:08 am

Sean and Faith: Hi there! Sean and Faith here. It was such a pleasure meeting you guys at dinner. We are currently in Viterbo and getting anxious to see Rome on the horizon. I hope the rest of your travels treat you well and that Jan’s hand is healing up nicely. Best of luck and buen Camino! 2023/10/29 at 3:50 pm

Reply: So glad to hear from you! We think about you guys on the trails—we’re near Vetralla tonight heading to Sutri tomorrow for two nights. We enjoyed the sights in Viterbo although we could certainly have used more time there. I had stitches removed in Montefiascone and am now recovering without bandages—so much better! Buen Camino and we will keep a lookout for you both! Buon Viaggio! 2023/10/29 at 8:24 pm

Kathy Nichols: Julia – Go for it! 2023/10/29 at 11:07 pm

Reply: Lots more places for Julia to consider. Maybe we should all try for a road trip! 2023/10/31 at 8:56 am

Wendy Hendry: The food looks delicious as usual. Are you enjoying or missing having busier streets and more people around you? 2023/10/30 at 2:05 pm

Reply: Your question really made us think. I believe that one of my biggest issues is managing my own expectations. I expected Bolsena to be beautiful with time to laze over a cappuccino or glass of wine by the lake. Not so! Nothing was open and our hotel, right by the lake, had virtually no services. We were constantly heading back into town for anything we needed. Once I tried to reset my attitude, we’re enjoying a quiet time on the trails and in hotels. We have met a few folks, but not as many as prior years. We are used to looking for our own places to eat, but have learned to check with hotel staff and get reservations, or we may be out of luck. We had a picnic dinner one night as we could find nothing open and the few open places were completely booked! 2023/10/31 at 9:04 am

Wanda Penner: You hotel looks lovely. But food access certainly made a challenge for you. 2023/11/07 at 4:12 am

Reply: The lakeshore was so beautiful but we were just there in the wrong season. It just took a bit more investigating up the hill to find a dinner location. We just added a bit of mileage to our day, and thankfully the rain held off at dinner time. 2023/11/07 at 5:50 am