2024 Sept 25 Wednesday

Ljubljana

Jose Plecnik was an architect who influenced many of the buildings in Ljubljana. We planned to take a tour of his house that is now a museum. It proved to be a highlight, explaining not only his professional history but his quirky personality as well. He studied classics and incorporated classical elements in his Vienna secession style of architecture (a type of Art Nouveau). He made his impact creating city identity and culture, and it has been said that few cities have been so profoundly marked by a single architect.

Below are some of his contributions to Ljubljana.

The triple bridge has a road bridge with two side pedestrian bridges. It connects one of the major plazas with the central market area.
This is the river side of the central market structure.
The central market side facing the castle features a collonade where vendor kiosks are plentiful.
The National and University Library building is unusual for its colors and 3-D siding. Plincik said it was darkest at the bottom and then the upper floors were bathed in light. He often used the element of light and dark, here saying one was entering in ignorance, and then going upstairs into knowledge.
The Cobbler’s Bridge featured more columns.
Another column in the square outside St. James Church.
This columns and fencing area, called Sance, on Castle hill is also designed by Plecnik.
Plecnik was interested in green spaces as well and designed spaces for sitting and walking along the river.
Here is our guide explaining the entrance of Plecnik’s Trnovo house. He originally planned to live in the house with his three siblings, but instead lived there alone with only a housekeeper. The entrance where guests would be greeted by the housekeeper, has classic columns and beams but they are there as decorations, not as part of the structure. Few guests were ever invited past this receiving area.
This classical urn was a gift from President Tito of Yougoslavia after Plecnik designed a garden portico for him.
Plecnik was a workaholic and believed comfort brought on laziness. He designed elements to fit their spaces, as this chair fits the wall and space next to the stove. However, the chair back has a cross piece to strike mid-back so as not to be too comfortable while having coffee and cigarettes in the morning.
Plecnik wanted a tower in his house, so he designed a two-story tower with office space on both floors. Next to it is a winter garden, enclosed by windows, where he taught pupils in WWII when the university was shut down.
Next we visited the imposing pink Franciscan Church of the Annunciation.
This Baroque 17th century structure is somewhat unique in that the high altar is placed in front of chapels. There is a lot of black marble that seemed to make the church darker.
This statue of Charlemagne is included in one of the side chapels. It is the only time he is included in a Slovenian church.
A ceiling fresco.
We thought we were heading to a museum area near the station called Metelkova, but it instead is an area of alternative art in former army barracks. The city allows the alternative groups, defining the site as an autonomous social center and a site of tolerance of minorities.

2 Responses

  1. Glad you have had a bit of leisure time to enjoy and explore your surroundings. We had read about how Ljubljana had an “artistic” history that was also found in its architecture and that was one of the reasons we were interested in visiting the city. Thanks so much for all the pictures you have sent, now don’t feel we have missed out so much. Wondering how you are going to stand being back to our very “plain” church after visiting and spending time in so many spectacular religious structures on your trip. At least there isn’t that much to distract us from the sermons and scripture readings!
    Dan

    1. Richard and I were pleasantly surprised how much we enjoyed the Plecnik house tour. Besides Ljubljana architecture, Plecnik also had effects in Vienna and Prague.
      It was a slower day on Wednesday. I debated about showing the artistic community of squatters near the Bahnhof, but decided it is important to show the city’s tolerance of marginalized groups.
      Regarding the church differences at home vs here, I think there are good things to recognize in both locations. It will be nice to get home and see how it affects us.