Richard had another great ReLive video covering the day’s hike, so I’m just adding a few photos and commentary.
ReLive video: https://www.relive.com/view/vdvmkWLKeN6.
13.18 miles, 1201 feet elevation gain. 61 degrees at the start of the day, cold and windy at the end of day with rain just as we arrived at the B&B.
Graham and Rosalind were staying at the same B&B so we had breakfast together two days. They are from Essex, UK and also came to see the puffins and other birds after they missed them on an Iceland cruise. (Sound familiar?) We had an enjoyable time chatting each day.
As we hiked to the south, we could see these imposing ruins for Dunstanburgh Castle for quite a while. The castle was established in 1313 by Thomas, Earl of Lancaster, cousin to King Edward II. It was all about intimidating power and impressions. Earl Thomas led the political opposition to the King.
Richard and Simon immediately climbed the tower while I watched the packs. The gate house courtyard was perfect for me to rest and watch people.
As we leave Dunstanburgh Castle, the path continues an easy amble along the coast. Our first town is Craster.
Entering Craster, we could smell something akin to barbeque. It turns out that this traditional fish smoker establishment does quite a business here. Craster kippers are a world famous delicacy. They are North Sea herrings cured in salt and slow-smoked in oak for up to 16 hours to achieve a natural rich golden color and delicate smoke flavor. They are traditionally eaten for breakfast or lunch.
The coast around Craster was notorious for supporting smuggling, particularly whiskey, gin, and tea. Bootleggers used the rocky inlet to land illicit alcohol from Scotland and overseas. The jagged rocks and sand dunes made it dangerous for heavy customs cutters to navigate, giving small smuggling boats an advantage.
We finally reach our B&B for the night, a 1730 building to house Rectors and their families for Earl Grey’s Howick Estate.
Our comfortable bedroom offered a fainting couch and fireplace.
Downstairs, a coal fire kept a common room comfortable.
One Response
What a great day. A trail you could actually see and timing your trip to avoid the rain. Only confusing thing this day was figuring out what a Scaramucci is!
Dan and Wendy